Make A Difference In Our Community Today
With reference to the map The entrance to our allotment site is at the extreme south end of Salisbury Road. The allotments can be seen just north of and running parallel to the railway line
For a comprehensive list of our stock items please see our Click & Collect Menu. You may purchase all the items found on the C&C menu directly when visiting the shop.
The shop is open for counter sales* and collection from Internet sales (Click and Collect).
Counter purchases* can be made by Card (contact-less or via PIN) on site.
*If current "lockdown" rules permit.
Shop Opening Hours for both counter purchases and collections from Internet sales:
Saturday & Sunday 9.00 am to 11.30 am
For further details please see the Click & Collect Webpage Menu found in this submenu.
Unfortunately due to Council and NHS advice we are not able to take cash at present.
Due to bank processing charges (85p per cheque) we can only accept cheques for purchases of £20 or more.
To use the Click & Collect Shop Service you must be either an Allotment Association Member or a Garden Member for details of becoming a Garden Member, see Garden Membership page and/or use our Contact Us Page
For further information on using our Click & Collect service please see the pages:
These pages can be found on this, The Allotment Shop, submenu.
Please note this service is for Plot Holders and Garden Members of the Salisbury Road Allotment Association only.
The shop facilities are ONLY seen as a service to the membership and NOT a profit making venture. All income is reinvested into improving the facilities for the benefit of the Membership.
The Click & Collect service is now a part of the Website so you can access it via the website or direct browser link - both are shown in the "How to Order" paragraph below.
Browsing and shopping by Click & Collect is open 24/7 for your convenience.
The Collection of Online orders are made from The Shop on:
Saturdays & Sundays 9.00am to 11.30am
Browsing and Purchasing in the traditional shopping mode is also welcomed during the above times (unless Government "lockdown" restrictions are in place).
How to Order
The Click & Collect service is now a part of the Website so you can access it via the website or direct browser link:
The browser independent link to the shop Click and Collect service is :
You can bookmark the above address for direct access or click on the Click & Collect option on the website menu bar or click here Website Click & Collect Page link
You will see that I have set up several categories that reflect shop stock.
Clicking on a category gives you a view of the items or submenus available in the category.
When you have found the item you require add the required number to the basket. (This can also be done retrospectively)
A view of your basket will appear on the right - you can chose to increase the number required, continue shopping or go to "Order Now".
Adding several items will provide a cumulative total in the “basket”
When your shopping is done – click on “Order Now”
Enter the relevant contact details.
These details may well be "remembered" by your computer/phone/tablet according to how you have set it up so when making future purchases you will be able to select the address details automatically just click into the first box and accept your computer's suggestions (if they are correct!!!)
Click on Save & Continue
There are three options for payment -
Pay by Card (There is no lower limit on card payments)
Pay by BACs - Clicking on this option will reveal the relevant transfer details (Sort Code = 30-80-27 A/No = 30341168) this is NOT automatic please transfer the funds through your online banking access.
Pay on Collection by Debit/Credit card
There is £1 MINIMUM (stipulated by card company) when using your Card for online, collection items or on the spot purchases in the shop. Due to Council and NHS advice we are not taking cash at the present.
Then click on Place Pickup Order – the next process depends on your choice of payment method and is outlined on the page - Click & Collect Payment
Payment via the Click & Collect website can be made in the following ways:
Online with a Credit/Debit Card OR BACs (see below) OR On collection - by card in the shop.
When you place your order as described in the Click & Collect - Info page and click on Order Now
You will be presented with three options:
CARD (Default option) or Pay by Bacs or Pay on Collection.
If you make this choice when ordering your payment will be automatically forwarded to our bank. Your statement should reference Cosham and District Allotments and Gardens or Allotment Shop against the payment. Our bank references your name and payment.
Enter your card details (CVC is the three number security code on the reverse of the card) and your postcode.
Your card details are NOT retained by the either our website or the card processing company.
You will then be invited to return to homepage - your order will be automatically sent through.
Every morning (and at other times) I will check the order status – I will then check stock status and send you an email with a copy of your order attached in PDF format and confirm the pickup day and time in the email.
Payment by BACs or On Collection.
For payment by BACs see our bank details below.
Click on Place Order , you will receive the appropriate info message according to which option you selected and you will then be invited to return to homepage - your order will be automatically sent through.
Every morning (and at other times) I will check the order status and send you an email with a copy of your order attached. The pickup day and times will be on the email.
Please Note the Order will be sent as a PDF attachment if you do not have a PDF (Portable Document Format) Reader on your computer/tablet/phone you can get one by using this link: https://get.adobe.com/uk/reader/ -the middle one is free and will do the job.
Our Bank Details are
Lloyds Bank Palmerston Road Branch (we use Cosham!)-
The account name is Cosham and District Allotments and Gardens
SORT CODE 30-80-27
Account Number 30341168
This page explains how to use the online booking system for advanced booking of machines.
It is necessary to make an advanced booking - see link below.
Please read the Terms & Conditions before making a machine loan - if you are not happy with them please do not book a loan until you have discussed your concerns with the shop team.
Terms & Conditions:
MACHINES ARE AVAILABLE FOR CURRENTLY PAID UP ASSOCIATION MEMBERS ONLY.
MACHINES MAY ONLY BE USED ON THE ALLOTMENT SITE & ARE AVAILABLE DURING SHOP HOURS ONLY.
MACHINES ARE USED ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK THIS INCLUDES YOU BEING RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN COVID19 PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES.
LOANS MUST BE BOOKED IN ADVANCE (up to 6 days in advance) and are made on a FIRST COME/ FIRST SERVED BASIS.
Loans are FREE (included in your membership subscription) and will be for the duration of ONE Click and Collect session either: Wednesday 10am-11am (in season), Saturday & Sunday 9am to 11.30am
You may book out 2 or more machines at one session eg. strimmer & lawnmower
Loans can be booked via the following link: https://www.salisburyroadallotments.co.uk/click-collect/loans-menu
If the weather is deemed acceptable for strimming/mowing please make every effort to fulfil booking as it will be reserved for you ahead of other requests. If you are unable to attend please email if possible.
If damage is incurred during the loan please inform us on return.
If the petrol or the strimmer cable runs out this is replaced at no cost or penalty.
|Goff Gleadle||Committee Chairman||Plot 48A|
|Peter Cheyne||Membership Secretary, Treasurer||Plot 19A|
|Robbie Hartt||Plot 56|
|Steve Rees ||Plots 1 & 1A|
|Paul Lee ||Plot 5|
|Peter Parham||Plot 18A|
|Andy Perman||Plot 6A|
|Dave Carpenter||Plot 22A|
|Shirley Weeks||Plot 10|
During the Covid19 season the allotment site was considered to be a safe haven and we, as a committee, were/are determined to maintain the safety AND provide as many of the site facilities and opportunities as possible.
Plot of the Month 2020
The presentation of the plots has reflected the joy and the time members have spent on their plots during the summer of 2020- so much so we felt it deserved a monthly competition - "Plot of the Month". The winners being awarded a prize from the shop.
Plot of the Month MAY 2020 - Judges Goff Gleadle & Peter Cheyne
Winner - Plot 35 - Tricia and Alan Pring
Plot of the Month JUNE 2020 - Judges Stephen Rees & Robbie Hart
Winner - Plot 4 - Vernon Gibbons
Plots 13, 14a, 15, 19a, 24a, 56 - which reflects the high standard of the plots.
Also a special Elephant Ear Cabbage prize goes to Bill Trace Plot 11
This page will contain information reflecting the information sent to Association Members via email and displayed on the Notice Board on the allotment site.
This procedure will replace a traditional meeting usually held during March which obviously, due to present circumstances, has to be cancelled.
If you wish to raise any issues please email - firstname.lastname@example.org
Please click on the links as directed.
You will require Acrobat PDF reader loaded on your computer which can be obtained free of charge via this link
Growing your own...getting started
A few suggestions to start you off and some places to go for more information
1) Start small. A new plot can be hard work and trying to cultivate and plant it all at once can be really discouraging. Even if you succeed you may still may not keep control. Far better to cultivate and plant a smaller area properly before moving on when you have time.
2) Decide what you want to grow. There is no point in growing something no one in the family likes!
3) Decide where you are going to grow each crop. Start with the permanent or semi permanent things first- shed, greenhouse, compost heap, asparagus or fruit bed. Consider the aspect and things like shade or invading roots from trees. Your shed, compost heap and perhaps rhubarb could go there leaving your better, more open areas for other crops.
4) You should not grow crops in the same area year after year so choose an area for peas and beans, another for onions, a third for brassicas and a fourth for root crops. It is then easy to move them round each year. Crops such as sweetcorn, salad crops and squash can be fitted in wherever you have space.
5) Do not try to get everything in at once at the start of the season. You will struggle to grow it and struggle to eat it when it all comes in at once! The season here is long so we can start earlier but more important if you get behind you still have time to get a good crop.
6) Sow small amounts at intervals. You can sow a row of carrots in March and another in April.
This spaces out the work and the harvest. You could sow more main crop carrots or leeks because they will keep or store till you need them but two rows of lettuce or spinach sown at once will go to seed before you can eat them!
Runner beans are very productive so perhaps plant a short row, with some french beans before and after to spread the harvest. You can have cabbage all the year but do you want it in summer when peas, beans, calabrese and other lovely things are around? Better to have it in winter and spring when there is little else, giving you more time in the busy season to look after the other crops.
7) Start with easier crops and established varieties. Salads, peas, beans, carrots, perpetual spinach, cabbage and calabrese are fairly easy and also potatoes, onions and leeks. Cauliflowers, summer spinach, swede and parsnip are more difficult. [you might do better though!]
8) Visit your plot little and often. It is better to go several times a week for a short time That way you can deal with the odd weed or spot the blackfly before they become a problem. When runner beans are in full flow you can pick them while they are at their best. If you visit once a week [and perhaps miss a visit ] you will find yourself struggling to control the weeds and pests and picking beans only to throw them away. In effect spending a lot of time just catching up.
9) Do not worry about getting it all done in the first season. The growing cycle is longer than one year, it will not be until your second spring that you will have experienced it all. So if you have only cultivated three quarters of the plot in the first summer you will have time to dig and plant a little more in the autumn for your garlic and spring cabbage and complete the job in the following spring.
Seed packets themselves contain quite a lot of information. All seed companies such as Suttons, Thompson and Morgan, etc. have catalogues with a lot of information. You can get them at the Allotment Shop, by post or sometimes at garden centres, but they all also have web sites with a bevy of information.
Last but not least the libraries and bookshops are full of gardening books.
The gardening year is more than 12 months. Preparation can start in January and the first sowings begun in February. A succession of crops can then be sown and planted right through to the autumn and these later crops can provide harvests through until April or May the following year. So the complete cycle can be 16 to 18 months. Let us imagine then we are starting out on our first year.
Little can be done outside unless it has been mild and dry enough to dig over and prepare some of the plot, so January is a good time to plan.
What crops would you like to grow?
There is no point in growing crops no one likes!
What are your objectives?
Do you want to grow as much produce as possible. In that case you might need a lot of freezer and storage space or be good at making preserves! Or you might want to grow smaller quantities of a wider variety of crops to meet your needs in the summer and to give something fresh all year round. Or perhaps grow those crops which are expensive in the shops yet still easy to grow. If you have very limited space consider crops like salads, tomatoes, climbing beans, which can give good returns from a small space.
Having chosen your crops, what varieties?
All seed companies produce catalogues and on line catalogues, which give lots of information. Check out our seed catalogue on the Click & Collect site.
However, every variety is described in glowing terms.
How do you decide which variety?
Well you can read between the lines somewhat. If a tomato is described as very reliable and high yielding but no mention of taste it probably doesn’t taste that good!
RHS [Royal Horticultural Society] recommendations are often noted in catalogues and these are generally good on all fronts.
Varieties which appear in many catalogues and have been around for a good few years are also a good bet. If they have proved popular over the years there must be a reason!
Many new varieties are F1, which means they have to be bred afresh each year by crossing the same two parents. They are often more vigorous, higher yielding and come to harvest at the same time. However, they have mostly been bred for commercial growers and have certain drawbacks for garden and allotment growers. They are more expensive than standard [open pollinated] seed and you can’t save the seed. If you are a farmer aiming to harvest all his brussel sprouts the week before Christmas an F1 is perfect, but for you a standard variety which becomes ready over several weeks might be better. There are seed companies which specialise in these varieties, just search the web for traditional or heritage vegetables.
If it is dry and mild you can perhaps dig and prepare the land and even sow one or two things, such as broad beans, onion and shallot sets, and parsnips. Don’t, however, feel you need to rush in. In these colder wetter conditions germination is likely to be slower and more uneven and seeds sown later germinate better and tend to catch up.
NOTE - The growing season in our part of the country is one of the longest. This means you can start earlier than in other places, but perhaps more important, it extends longer in the Autumn, meaning that even if you sow and plant later, you will still get a good crop.
February is a good month for starting off more tender crops indoors. Sweet and chilli peppers can be sown in a heated propagator or on a warm windowsill inside or in an airing cupboard. They germinate and grow quite slowly so will be ready to plant outside in May, in time to avoid frosts but still have a long season to mature.
Some people sow tomatoes at this time but tomatoes grow much more quickly and can get weak and leggy by May when they can be planted outside. I believe March is much better. (remember NOTE above).
Potatoes can be chitted this month. This means putting your potatoes ( use only seed potatoes ) on a tray in a cool, light frost free place where they will start to produce shoots. This is supposed to give them a head start and an earlier harvest. It is really only useful for early potatoes and even then only means you will get your first taste a week or so early. For me the first new potatoes are a treat whenever they arrive!
This is the first of the three busiest sowing and planting months of the year. If you look at some seed sowing calendars you might feel you have to get everything done at once, but don’t panic, remember the NOTE above, if you are a little late you still have plenty of time to get good crops. Far better to ensure you have enough of your ground prepared to sow small amounts of the earliest crops such as parsnips, carrots and peas rather than struggle to prepare and sow everything.
Sow small amounts at intervals.
This spreads your work load at a busy time but also means when it comes to harvest you don’t have more than you can eat. Sowing a whole row of lettuce at once will probably mean that when they are ready you will be only be able to eat a few before the rest go to seed. Applying the same principle to carrots , peas and other crops will give you a continuing supply without gluts.
Sow carrots, peas, lettuce , radish and spring onions at intervals.
Sow broad beans and plant onion and shallot sets if you have not already done so.
Sow brussel sprouts, celery and leeks in a seed bed for planting later.
Potatoes? You can plant early potatoes at the end of February, but a little later is safer. With potatoes it is not the time of planting itself that matters but the time when the leaves come through. If there is a sharp frost at this time the potatoes can be set back considerably. Early, second early and maincrop potatoes have different lengths of planting to harvest. You can plant early potatoes first but if you plant them all at a similar time you will still get earlies first and the others following on.
Sow tomatoes inside.
Prepare more ground if necessary and continue as above with sowings of carrots, peas ( including mange tout), lettuce, etc.
You can still sow more broad beans and plant potatoes.
Sow beetroot, turnips and perpetual spinach.
Sow calabrese, cabbages, brussel sprouts, kale and caulifowers in a seed bed for planting later.
Don’t panic over this, you can always cheat by buying in plants from a garden centre later. As you usually only need 6 to 12 of these, buying in is as economical as growing from seed.
French and runner beans can be sown inside ready for planting out in May, as can sweetcorn and courgettes. remember above NOTE, don’t rush to get these started as crops sown and planted later usually get away better and often catch up and do better than those planted too early.
Plant tomatoes in cold glass house.
Sow more of above: carrots, peas, salads, beetroot, turnips and spinach.
At the end of the month direct sow french and runner beans, sweetcorn and courgettes.
Don’t worry if you are late you will still get a good crop.
Sow swedes. Plant out tomatoes, sweet corn french and runner beans sown indoors. Again better at the end of the month or into early June.
Sow winter cabbages and winter cauliflowers.
Sow indoor and outdoor cucumbers inside for planting in June.
Plant out brussels, leeks, celery and autumn and winter cabbages if you have space. If not you can plant them later after early crops such as overwintered broad beans garlic and shallots come out.
Earth up potatoes.
Watch out for blackly on overwintered broad beans and carrot fly and flea beetle.
Weed when necessary. It is far easier to keep on top if you get the weeds when young.
More direct sowings of french and runner beans, peas, salads, carrots, swedes and spinach, can be made.
Plant leeks, celery, brussel sprouts, cabbages, calabrese, purple sprouting broccoli, courgettes and marrows, sweetcorn, runner and french beans and outdoor tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers.
With luck you will be starting to harvest the first of your overwintered broad beans, peas, garlic, onions and shallots. Your first few early potatoes may also be ready at the end of the month.
Keep weeding! Water if the weather is dry. It is easier to keep on top of both and pests if you visit your plot little and often rather than putting in several hours at less frequent intervals!
You will now need to stake peas, beans, tomatoes and anything tall.
This is the busiest harvest month, but there are still things to sow and plant.
You can still sow carrots, french beans, turnips, kale and perpetual spinach.
Dig up and dry out your garlic, onions and shallots.
You can plant out brussels, cabbages, winter cauliflowers and broccoli in their place.
French and runner beans will be nearly ready to harvest, as will later peas including mange tout, taking over from broad beans and early peas. You will be harvesting potatoes and carrots, salad crops, calabrese, cauliflowers and the first tomatoes, courgettes and cucumbers.
Keep weeding and watering where necessary. Keep a close watch out for pests.
Watch out for blight on potatoes and outside tomatoes.
Remember beans and peas will produce more pods if you harvest them frequently, so little and often again!
Sow pak choi, chinese cabbage and mooli (Japanese winter radish ). These are very quick growing and will give you a crop by October.
Sow spring cabbage, perpetual spinach and turnips for winter cropping. Plant winter cabbage.
Some vegetables will be past their peak but others such as sweetcorn, tomatoes, peppers and aubergines will be at their best.
Keep picking french and runner beans, peas and courgettes to prolong cropping.
There will also be calabrese, cabbage, cauliflower, salads, carrots, turnips and potatoes.
Spring planted onions should be dug up and dried out if you have not already done so.
Keep weeding and water when necessary.
Main crop potatoes appreciate water when they are bulking up and swedes can be tough and woody if not watered in dry spells.
Keep looking out for pests and potato blight.
Summer cauliflower can be sown in a cold frame for overwintering and planting out next spring.
All the vegetables listed for August will should still be producing and the first celery and brussel sprouts might be coming ready.
Main crop potatoes can also be lifted and stored and a start made on digging the ground for next spring.
Stake brussel sprouts to avoid wind rock in winter.
Sow over wintering varieties of broad beans and peas, such as Aquadulcia Claudia and peas Meteor and Douce Provence.
Plant spring cabbage.
Garlic and overwintering onions and shallots can be planted late in the month and into November.
Now is the time to lift and store many of the root crops, such as carrots, beetroot, turnips and swedes. I find, however, that you can leave these in the ground and dig them up when needed: parsnips are reputed to taste sweeter after a touch of frost.
There should be perpetual spinach, autumn cauliflowers and cabbage to harvest and brussel sprouts should be maturing. the first of the leeks might also be available.
Continue to dig over empty beds if the weather allows.
Remember above NOTE, our season is long and often summer crops such as beans and salads can continue well into October.
Garlic, shallots and onions can still be planted and if it is mild, broad beans and peas.
Cabbage, cauliflowers, brussels, leek and celery should all be available alongside all the roots and stored vegetables such as onions, shallots and garlic.
Clean up all weeds, dead leaves and other rubbish and dig over empty ground. This exposes and destroys pests and diseases which might otherwise overwinter and saves a lot of time in spring.
Dig in or lay on top, manure or compost where potatoes, peas and beans are to be planted next year.
Little can be done outside this month although if the weather is dry and mild you might be able to do more digging and soil preparation.
It is however once more the time to look through the seed catalogues and plan for the coming season, this time with the knowledge of your season’s successes and failures, with thought of rotating your crops and with some crops for winter harvest occupying the ground until spring while other areas are prepared and ready. So plan to put later planted crops such as sweetcorn or runner beans after your winter greens but early crops such as early potatoes and broad beans and summer brassica where the land is already cleared after crops such as maintop potatoes and beans.
It can be a little fiddly to do this and ensure you are also rotating your crops, but it can be done!
Always make a sketch of what you grew where ( optimistic plans and the reality ! ) so you can plan the coming season.
Brussels, cabbage, leeks and kale and root crops should still be available.
Here are a selection of recipes which utilise crops commonly grown on allotments...
Goff’s Cool , Casual, Cucumber and Courgette Soup
Chop a medium onion. Soften and colour in a saucepan. Chop up courgettes and cucumbers in whatever quantities and proportions you fancy. Remember though that cucumber has stronger flavour than courgette. Add to onion in pan and cover with vegetable stock. A stock cube will do. Cook for 20 mins until soft, add a little chopped mint and whizz with blender. Simples!
Preparation time very little.
Cooking time not much more
Good hot or cold.
Voted delicious by Eastney Community Centre and Southsea Greenhouse.
Boil 500grms Rhubard in 1ltr of water with 250grms of sugar for about 20mins then strain and cool.
Fill a shaker with ice and shake 70mls of the syrup with 70mls of vodka, or to taste, serve immediately.
The syrup will keep in the fridge for a few weeks.
Do not operate heavy machinery!
This basic recipe can be adapted for all fruit as it becomes available.
Raspberries, blackberries, plums (de-stoned) / sugar
Large microwave proof mixing bowl / jam jars
Cook your berries, fresh or frozen on a high setting for 4 minutes to release their juices. At this stage I put it through a kitchen sieve to remove the pips. Add an equal amount, by weight, of sugar and cook on high stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Continue to cook on high until jam setting point is reached, (about 20 minutes), a jam thermometer is useful. Put into warm jars then cool, seal and label.
Oven Baked Rhubarb Jam
250g jam sugar with added pectin
250g thin rhubarb trimmed weight
Preheat oven 200c/180cfan/gas 6
Cut rhubarb into 1 cm lengths. Toss the rhubarb and sugar in a bowl and then pile into a baking dish packing it evenly. Cover with foil and bake for 40 mins. Give it a gentle stir and cook uncovered for another 20 mins stirring again after 10 mins. Transfer to a hot sterilised jar, cover and leave to cool before sealing.